Into the Heart of Wilderness: Hiking to Big Horn Sheep Country

Initially, I felt hesitant writing about the series of three hikes where I attempted to reach Fish Fork Campgrounds -- because I never found them -- but perhaps my note could still aid anyone trying to locate the place in the future. The fact that I no longer reside in the States will inhibit my further endeavors, so I must register these attempts as my best efforts.

A note on this trek: (1) the hike is relatively long, isolated, and poorly marked. (2) Water is only available at three places unless the snow is still on the ground. (3) As the name suggests, the place is Big Horn country, so mountain lions are probably also around. While there, several times, I had a distinct sense of being watched, and my normally calm dog was also positively spooked. Hiking alone for the outlined reasons is probably not recommended.

There are two other ways to reach Fish Fork, hiking up through the East Fork of the San Gabriel River from Chrystal Lake or the direction of Mt. Waterman. This blog offers a trek description from Manker Flats through Baldy. Because of the length and elevation variations, this hike is best attempted after the snow completely melted from the peaks but before the hottest summer months, giving a relatively short window for ideal conditions. During my first attempt on May 6, '08, there were only a few spots of snow on San Antonio Peak. At the same time, the north face still had two feet of snow cover and occasionally six-foot-high drifts, even down at 7000'.

The backside of Baldy does not have a marked trail, only a cross-country path down to the saddle (8659 ft.) and up again toward Dawson Peak (9375 ft.) on a relatively well-worn trek. In many ways, this part of the hike is one of the most visually dramatic, thanks to its giant roller-coaster quality and because of the view offered up to the San Antonio Ridge running perpendicularly in the back, the double peaks of Dawson and Pine Mountain along the ridge line up front, and the Wilderness down to the left.

Halfway between Dawson Peak and Pine Mountain, the trail goes off left and runs a bit below the peak of Pine Mountain, eventually reaching the old and barely noticeable signpost of Fishfork Junction. In this area, I had the singular pleasure of running into a band of big horn sheep. This is also where this region's last tangible evidence of any trail planning is visible.

The junction turns 180 degrees and follows the trail going opposite for a while until it soon entirely disappears among a series of fallen, large pine trees. It becomes detectable only occasionally from this point on. From here, I can only provide GPS points and their corresponding descriptions. I also must add (with some reservations) that I think I found the Upper Fishfork Campground, although I can't be entirely sure because my assumption is only based on a split in the trail at the end of my last hike, where I also found a rusty coffee can.

At N 34.18.324' W117.38.665', the trail runs down in two sets of switchbacks and veers off the right approximately following the path of N 285' W 692', N 295' W 772', N 219' W 823', N 262' W 39. 011'. The trail here is a little easier to follow as it moves along the mountainside and crosses a couple of wooded canyons. The second canyon also holds a seasonal creek providing a source to replenish the water supply at N 478' W 38.974'. At N 499' W 39.457', the trail reaches an open mountainside overgrown with dense brush. Here the on-again-off-again trail switchbacks down to a high, wooded outcropping forked by rushing water from both sides some 1000' below. The coordinates to follow are: N 502' W 652', N 405' W 728', N 395' W 832' (a fine spot to camp). Further, the trek goes lower, off the right to another mountainside following the points of N 395' W 908', N 531' W 864'. At the second set of coordinates, the trail splits again to a waterfall on the right and another wooded lowland straight below. I suspect the trail going to the waterfall is where the Upper Fishfork Campground is(was) located. I did not go in that direction because I only saw the fork in the trail on the way back.

Again, I did not physically locate either campground, although I assume I got close to both of them if they still exist. I do not know if anybody else has managed to find them lately because I could not see any shoe print or sign of human disturbance of any kind. The country, however, is magnificent and definitely worth further exploring.

A Kick-Ass Day Hike Sans Mountain Driving

After eyeballing this hike for a while, I finally decided that the time was right to do it: a Mt. Wilson Trail-West Fork Loop combo. Due to the length of the trek (approx. 30 miles) and elevation gain (700' - 5700'), a long but relatively cooler day is required to avoid extensive night hiking and heat exhaustion while maintaining a substantially brisk pace. For reference: I took 12 hours to complete this hike with a half-hour stop at West Fork Campground.

The first leg (Sierra Madre-Mt. Wilson section) should not take more than three hours to complete. There is a possible alternate starting point, Chantry Flats. I decided against this option, though, for fear of not making it back on time and getting locked in.

Once reaching Mt. Wilson summit and heading down to Newcomb Pass, the trail at this section suffers from various degrees of disrepair. Although the view is astounding, this goat trail is cut into a near-vertical face. At times, the footing is less than adequate, so trekking poles here genuinely come in handy. Further down, as the trail levels off, the only occasional manzanita overgrowth creates some obstacles.

Arriving at Newcomb Pass, there is a bench for temptation, several beat-up National Forest Service (NFS) signs, and a memorial plaque commemorating a dead volunteer. Please note that the Wilderness Press: San Gabriel Mountains recreation map shows only three possible directions to proceed from the Pass; there are, in fact, four choices. To continue to Devore Campground, one must take the trail directly to the left. Further down, as the trail crosses the Rincon-Redbox Fire Road, it does it somewhat awkwardly: hikers have to walk on the fire road for approximately 30 feet left to find the continuing and barely visible track.

Below the fire road, a series of narrow canyons shelter expansive groves of California Laurel. Consisting of 60-80% of this single species of trees in the area, the canopy here takes an unusually bright, green appearance and some respite from the dirty-old oaks. More uniquely, some green grass grows here even as late and dry as in September, hinting at higher ground moisture levels in these canyons.

Further down, Devore Campground is reached at the west fork of the San Gabriel River. Being a typical backpackers' camp, the site's only notable feature is perhaps its vicinity to a fine swimming hole. The trail takes an East-to-West direction and runs along the riverbed to West Fork Campground. Continue to Strayns Canyon (which was not once marked on any of the worn NFS signage), hikers must take a left at all trail branches.

Strayns Canyon might as well be called strains canyon. The first half of the path runs straight up without any switchbacks gaining 800 vertical feet. After that, the trail levels off somewhat and later climbs the north slopes of Mt. Wilson through richly covered pine groves. Once below the antennae, the trail pointing to "Mt. Wilson parking lot" takes its hikers back to the top of Mt. Wilson-Sierra Madre Trail to proceed down to the starting point.