Some days are like a paddle-out on a cold, foggy, winter morning. You know, it is going to be good on the other side of the breakers, but for the moment all the focus is on the slightly congested, labored breathing and the long, struggling drags in the gray and chilly water. You would rather be somewhere else, somewhere warm and cozy, preferably in bed with head buried deep under a pillow. Instead, you lie flat on the surfboard, as the cold ocean splashes around you, plowing ahead with a maniacal stare at the next set of waves that will inevitably roll over you.
The dives underwater are especially harsh, as the cold darkness grips the body and sticks her frozen fingers into the ears canals. Yeah, it is going to be good once passed those dirty, rags of incoming, broken waves but, boy, it sucks really bad at the moment!